SCIENTIFIC ANALYSIS - "THE LIBRARY OF INGREDIENTS""

This section provides an in-depth analysis of each component of the Peptidia formula, focusing on the scientific evidence supporting its effectiveness, offering consumers a complete and transparent view of the product.

Introduction:

Each ingredient has been selected for its proven effectiveness, working in perfect harmony to give you visible and long-lasting results.

Tetrapeptide-21: The Extracellular Matrix Activator

Tetrapeptide-21 is a biotechnological peptide whose amino acid sequence (GEKG) was identified through bioinformatics methods, replicating a structure found in the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin.1 This makes it a "signaling peptide" that activates the biological response of skin cells. Its main function is to stimulate the biosynthesis of key ECM components, such as collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid, which are crucial for the skin's strength, elasticity, and resilience.1

The effectiveness of this ingredient has been extensively documented through rigorous clinical studies both in vitro That in-vivo.

🔹 Origin and mechanism

Tetrapeptide-21 is a synthetic oligopeptide developed to mimic small fragments resulting from the natural degradation of the collagen I.
These fragments, when released, activate dermal fibroblasts: the peptide replicates this signal and stimulates the endogenous synthesis of the main components of the extracellular matrix (ECM):

  • Collagen I, III and VII
  • Fibronectin
  • Hyaluronic Acid

It acts mainly through the TGF-β/Smad pathway and the gene regulation of ECM factors.

🔹 Experimental evidence

  • In vitro: +250 % collagen production at 1 ppm on human fibroblasts (Sircol™ Assay).
  • In vivo: +41 % skin elasticity, −25 % surface roughness after 8 weeks.

🔹 Cosmetic benefits

  • Visibly reduces wrinkles and fine lines.
  • Improves the firmness and density of the dermis.
  • Increases skin brightness and uniformity.
  • Deep and progressive “restructuring” effect.

🔹 Tolerability

Highly biocompatible, non-irritating, suitable for daily use on all skin types.

🧩 2. The main categories of cosmetic peptides

Category

Description and Mechanism

Typical examples

Main effect

1. Signal Peptides

They trigger the synthesis of collagen, elastin and HA by mimicking ECM fragments.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Tetrapeptide-21 (GEKG)

Structural rejuvenation, increased elasticity.

2. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (Botox-like)

They block the nerve transmission of acetylcholine, relaxing the mimic muscles.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Dipeptide 

Reduction of dynamic wrinkles, “botox-like” effect.

3. Carrier Peptides (transport)

They chelate and transport metal ions (copper, zinc, manganese) essential for tissue repair.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Mn-Tripeptide-1

Healing, antioxidant, deep repair.

4. Enzyme inhibitory peptides (Anti-MMP)

They inhibit metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen and elastin.

Tripeptide-29, Hexapeptide-12

Protection and prevention of photoaging.

  1. Comparison of Tetrapeptide-21 (GEKG) with the four classes of peptides

Class

Mechanism of action

Skin benefits

Comparison with Tetrapeptide-21 (GEKG)

1. Signal Peptides

They stimulate the synthesis of ECM (collagen, elastin, HA).

Firming, filling effect, improved texture.

GEKG it is a signal peptide A new generation, more targeted at collagen I and III than Matrixyl®. It offers superior performance in terms of elasticity and density.

2. Botox-like peptides

They inhibit muscle contraction by blocking acetylcholine.

Immediate reduction of expression lines.

GEKG it does not act on the muscles, but reconstructs the dermis. More progressive yet structural and natural results.

3. Carrier Peptides

They transport metal ions to activate repair enzymes.

Regeneration and antioxidant protection.

GEKG does not transport metals, but it stimulates the internal production of hyaluronic acid and collagen. It is more stable and delicate.

4. Anti-enzyme peptides

They inhibit MMP 1 and 9 to preserve collagen and elastin.

Protection of the dermal structure and prevention of photoaging.

GEKG acts upstream: stimulates new collagen synthesis, compensating for degradation. Improved long-term restructuring effect.

5M Hyaskin™: The 5-Dimensional Hydration Complex

5M Hyaskin™ is an innovative blend of five different types of sodium hyaluronate, each with a specific molecular weight. This combination has been formulated to act on every layer of the skin, ensuring intense hydration and complete protection. The complex works on two distinct levels.1

  • Surface Action: Hyaluronic acid molecules at high and medium molecular weight They are too large to penetrate deeply. Their function is to create a thin, protective film on the skin's surface. This layer acts as a barrier, drastically reducing transepidermal hydration loss and retaining existing moisture, providing an immediate sensation of tighter, smoother skin.1
  • Deep Action: Hyaluronic acid molecules at low and very low molecular weight They have the ability to penetrate the deepest layers of the epidermis. Once absorbed, they help improve and prolong internal hydration, filling the skin's microstructure and providing a lasting and visible plumping effect.

Lactobionic Acid: The Gentle and Multifunctional Revitalizer

Lactobionic Acid is a next-generation polyhydroxy acid (PHA), appreciated for its very gentle exfoliating action, making it ideal for even the most sensitive skin, including those suffering from acne or rosacea. Unlike more aggressive alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), PHAs perform their functions without causing irritation. Its properties extend far beyond simple exfoliation:

  • Hydration: It possesses remarkable hygroscopic properties, meaning it attracts and retains atmospheric water. Applied to the skin, it forms a protective, moisturizing film that acts as an emollient and limits water loss.
  • Antioxidant Action: It is able to inhibit the formation of free radicals, contributing to cellular protection and the prevention of skin aging.
  • Prevention of Photoaging: Lactobionic acid has the ability to block the production of metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that degrade collagen, whose activity is stimulated by UV rays and the natural aging process. This helps preserve the skin's structural integrity.
  • Cellular Renewal: It promotes gentle cell turnover and keratinization, improving the appearance of the skin and making it brighter and more even.

Hamamelis and Aloe: The Soothing and Purifying Base

The formula is enriched with a base of natural, organic ingredients, known for their soothing and rebalancing properties.

  • Hamamelis Virginiana water: Derived from the witch hazel plant, it has historically been used for its soothing, astringent and decongestant properties.3 It helps calm the skin, reduce redness and balance sebum production, making the serum suitable for all skin types.10
  • Aloe Barbadensis Juice: Extracted from the leaves of the aloe vera plant, this ingredient is a source of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. It is renowned for its hydrating and regenerative properties, penetrating deeply to nourish and revitalize the skin.4 It promotes cell regeneration, helps restore the skin barrier and provides elasticity, contributing to the overall anti-aging action of the formula.

Tocopheryl Acetate: The Protective Antioxidant

Tocopheryl acetate is a synthetic, and significantly more stable, form of vitamin E.5 Its stability makes it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations, as it does not degrade easily when exposed to heat, air, and light. Its function is twofold:

  1. Formula Protection: It acts as an antioxidant, preventing the oxidation of other sensitive ingredients and ensuring the longevity and effectiveness of the product over time.5

Antioxidant Action on the Skin: Although conversion to its active form, tocopherol, is limited in the uppermost layers of the skin, Tocopheryl Acetate still penetrates into the most vital layers, where it can be partially converted and help protect cells from damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation.5 This makes it a crucial component of daily skin protection.